Wed Dec 27 09:21:15 EST 2006
heat transfer properties and is generally much harder then straight annealed
copper, however when slightly oxidised, it becomes difficult to solder.
The Crystal element supported at the end of the pin(s), may receive excessive
thermal shock with to much heat. I would exercise greater caution then normal.
I suggest a fine flat pair of pliers at the base of the pin(s) leading into
the ceramic insulator, this will help in dissipating the heat to the pliers
jaws rather then transmitting the heat all the way to the Crystal element.
>The pins are made of some alloy such as kovar.
>I vaguely remember that you can solder to them
>if you really want to. I think the production
>people decided welding was easier for them.
>The stranded wires do have an annoying tendancy
>to break off if you flex them very much.
>There may have been a concern that the heat of
>soldering to the pins wasn't good for the crystal.
>If you are going to solder, watch the heat.
>Rick Karlquist N6RK
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: time-nuts-bounces at febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces at febo.com]On
>> Behalf Of Jim Palfreyman
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 3:31 PM
>> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
>> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Repair - Voltage Check
>> On Wednesday, January 24, 2007 at 11:30:20 AM, Discussion of
>> precise time and frequency measurement wrote:
>> > Dr Bruce Griffiths wrote:
>> > The crystal leads are supposed to be welded to the crystal base.
>> > The blue wire looks OK but the green and red wires are suspect.
>> > When welding wires one doesn't use solder dipped multistrand wires.
>> > Maybe the red green wires do not make good electrical contact with the
>> > crystal pins.
>> I have to ask this...why wouldn't soldering work?
>> Jim Palfreyman
>> time-nuts mailing list
>> time-nuts at febo.com
>time-nuts mailing list
>time-nuts at febo.com
More information about the time-nuts