[time-nuts] OT: RoHS crap
Michael Sokolov
msokolov at ivan.Harhan.ORG
Mon Jan 15 13:51:55 EST 2007
Hello time-nuts,
Sorry for the off-topic post, but reading my mail this morning I've seen
a few messages go by on this list about bad solder joints due to the
RoHS stupidity, and I have a question about that.
My interest in the matter is from the perspective of a hobbyist hardware
builder -- of the non-commercial, anarchist, screw-all-f***ing-laws
kind. To me the RoHS problem is really two separate problems, of which
only one really matters:
Part one is the lead-free solder. *I think* this one is easily solved
-- just use normal tin-lead solder in everything I build.
Part two is the lead-free *parts*. This is the real problem. While
some manufacturers still offer both leaded and lead-free parts at least
on paper, in many cases the leaded part is discontinued or much more
difficult to obtain than the lead-free version.
So here are my questions for those who seem to have more experience with
this whole mess than I do:
1. Are the crappy RoHS solder joints due to the lead-free solder or the
lead-free parts? If it's the solder, will using traditional tin-lead
solder give me traditional good solder joints even if the parts are
lead-free, or are we doomed to live with crappy solder joints until
we can raise an army to march on the part factories and force them to
restart the production of leaded parts?
2. What problems should I be on the lookout for when soldering lead-free
parts with the traditional tin-lead solder? Or does this not work
and I would have to use the goddamn lead-free solder if I'm forced to
use lead-free parts?
3. Since I want to use leaded parts whenever I can get them and use
lead-free ones only if there is no choice, I'll have a mix of leaded
and lead-free parts on my boards. I've heard that such mixing gives
problems with reflow soldering because the two melt at different
temperatures. What if I use the traditional tin-lead solder
throughout? Any advice?
TIA a lot for any insight.
MS
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