[time-nuts] 10811 Repair - Voltage Check

[Jack Hudler]

If you do solder it, wrap the wire at least 4 turns starting at the bottom, then
clip a pair of forceps or needle nose pliers for a heat sink on the start turn.
Then only solder the end of the wire on the terminal (There's a NASA procedure #
for this method, but that was another space, time and a dab of urethane).

One wonders how it passed the vibration testing without a good mechanical
connection (e.g., see above method). 
Did they even test this (other than shock)? 

Smarter heads than I worked on it so; I guess the wire length, stiffness and
adjacent padding are sufficient to prevent this. 

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces at febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces at febo.com] On Behalf
Of Richard (Rick) Karlquist
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 10:57 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Repair - Voltage Check

The pins are made of some alloy such as kovar.
I vaguely remember that you can solder to them
if you really want to.  I think the production
people decided welding was easier for them.
The stranded wires do have an annoying tendancy
to break off if you flex them very much.

There may have been a concern that the heat of
soldering to the pins wasn't good for the crystal.
If you are going to solder, watch the heat.

Rick Karlquist N6RK