vu2zap at gmail.com
Sat Feb 13 03:38:29 UTC 2010
Thanks for the tips Magnus. I will open the unit and with gentle taps - see what causes the problem.
Yes, I know that the frequency is programmable. The unit came from "flyingbest" on Ebay and I see that three wires are connected from the 9 pin D to the inside where the Tx/Rx connector. The 10Mhz output seems to have been added by the vendor, I see a crude hole drilled and burrs still intact and a SMA fixed there. I wonder how the original unit had an output if there was no connector!
At 13-02-10, you wrote:
>> I will explore this issue tomorrow, 20:00 here now. I was just going through a boyish thrill of fiddling with a Sony ICF-S10Mk2 and the amazing numbers of AM stations it picks up.. maybe it can be used at 60Khz.. for 10$ it worth it !!
>> How about keeping he Rb cover open ? I measured the lamp housing
>>at 110C and the rest at 60-70C.
>These are the expected values and heating is applied to achieve it. Pulling the cover will force more power to be pushed into it to compensate for the cooling, and fast-changes in temperature will be less effectively compensated.
>>I dont intend to keep my units on all the time but I dont feel good about anything running hot!
>No, you *WANT* it to run at those temperatures for a number of reasons. That is what the Rubidium physical package needs for proper operations.
>So pulling the lid of (which is magnetic shielding) to cool it (the regulated temperature) is defeating the intended operation. Rather, make sure to not cool it too much.
>>Maybe a small slow fan might help. I am fascinated by the blinking light inside at 1Hz and thats
>>not available on the DB connector. I did add a reverse polarity protection by soldering a 2A diode
>>between the center pin of the regulator and the +15 pin. I wish I can find a schematic and what
>>else I can do with this gizmo!
>You can program the output frequency... but I assume you know that.
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