[time-nuts] fluke.l monitor for Thunderbolt . . . the saga continues

shalimr9 at gmail.com shalimr9 at gmail.com
Wed Jul 6 23:41:01 UTC 2011


Removing the processor board is a challenge because (at least on the old board) the holes are a little too tight for the pins, so even if you remove all the solder, the pins will remain stuck.
I found it easier to cut all the pins connecting the two boards and unsolder them one at a time.

When done, replace them with regular wire.

Didier

Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless thingy while I do other things...

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve <steve65 at suddenlink.net>
Sender: time-nuts-bounces at febo.com
Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2011 14:43:07 
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement<time-nuts at febo.com>
Reply-To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
	<time-nuts at febo.com>
Subject: [time-nuts] fluke.l monitor for Thunderbolt . . . the saga continues

Hi all,

About a month ago I sought advice from list members regarding a 
dysfunctional fluke.l monitor for my Thunderbolt GPS receiver. Someone 
suggested that I contact Bob at fluke.l to see what he would do. I took 
that advice and thought some of you would be interested where I am now. 
Plus, I need some more advice :-)

Communicating with Bob is a challenge due to my not knowing any Chinese 
and Bob having quite limited English language skills. Following a number 
of emails back and forth, Bob sent me a replacement microprocessor board.

The layout of the replacement unit differs from the layout of the older 
microprocessor board. The lengths are about the same, but the 
replacement board is a bit more narrow than the older board. Further, 
the microprocessor chip on the replacement board is parallel to the 
short dimension of the board whereas that IC is parallel to the long 
dimension of the board on the older unit.

Does anyone know if the replacement board with its different layout has 
the voltage problem I was seeing with the older board? The older board 
has the microprocessor VDD at about 5V. I understand that VDD should be 
about 3V and am wondering if the replacement board has corrected that 
problem?

Is it as simple as removing the older, existing board and soldering the 
replacement unit in its place? Any tips as to how to most easily remove 
the existing board?

Thanks.

Steve

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