[time-nuts] wwvb weak on east coast especially when the pre-amps under wa...

Bob Camp lists at rtty.us
Tue May 15 10:48:51 UTC 2012


Hi

If you actually have to get the product through full humidity and salt spray testing *plus* make it work in the real world - go with the Parylene. The two part urethane coatings are pretty good, the acrylics are nearly transparent.

Bob

On May 15, 2012, at 3:21 AM, Attila Kinali wrote:

> On Mon, 14 May 2012 19:43:47 -0600
> Tom Knox <actast at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> What type of coating do you recommend? What is the downside of coating all electronics?
> 
> As i wrote before, we usually use "Plastik 70" and "Urethan 71" for the
> stuff that does not need high specs. For those that are under water and/or
> more aggresive stuff (like body fluids) we use parylene.
> 
> The down side is that it costs money (it needs a manual step) and it makes
> reworks more difficult as you have to ensure that after the rework the
> coating is made watertight again (which isn't as easy as it looks).
> 
> Oh.. and connectors are really a pain with any coating. Either you
> coat them as well and lose the connectivity or you have a point where
> water can creep under the coating.
> 
> 			Attila Kinali
> 
> -- 
> The trouble with you, Shev, is you don't say anything until you've saved
> up a whole truckload of damned heavy brick arguments and then you dump
> them all out and never look at the bleeding body mangled beneath the heap
> 		-- Tirin, The Dispossessed, U. Le Guin
> 
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