[time-nuts] Lucent KS-24361, HP/Symmetricom Z3809A, Z3810A, Z3811A, Z3812...

GandalfG8 at aol.com GandalfG8 at aol.com
Sun Nov 2 09:44:59 EST 2014

Oh well, and perhaps not too surprisingly, the J5 pin 3 to ground option on 
 its own was not that much of a raging success.
However, the unit did eventually come up indicating "Standby", and at that  
point pulling out the pin 3 to ground link and inserting the previously 
made up  plug switched it into "On" mode and up came the outputs.
I'm sure everyone is getting a bit tired of hearing me going on  about 
this, and it's hard to know what else to add other than to say there seems  to 
be more than one option that will do the trick, but my wired plug as  
previously described, and wired according to the starting in the top right hand  
corner numbering scheme, does, for me at least, seem to work every time,  so I 
think I'll just stick with that and quit whilst I'm ahead:-)
In a message dated 02/11/2014 01:27:18 GMT Standard Time,  
golgarfrincham at gmail.com writes:

Keep in  mind that I made the modifications to my RFTG-u REF 1 almost
4 years ago  and the details of why I did what I did are kind of foggy
today. It was a  pure hack but I *believe* that the circuitry as well
as the jumpers were  required, or at least I thought so. The big problem
with getting something  like this to work is that after spending a lot
of time on it I generally go  on to the next project and as long as what
I did works, I forget about it  because it is a one of a kind thing. The
photo link below shows the 5Mhz  buffer amp I connected to the TP in
front of the oscillator that uses a  mounting bracket that is secured
by the BNC connector that outputs the  5Mhz. The 24V/2A power supply that
I mounted on the back connects across  the diode on the circuit board as
shown. The transistors and other  components of the modification that are
mounted free form on the back of  the J5 connector get the +5VDC from
the header directly in back of J5. The  wire on the left goes through an
existing hole on the circuit board to  connect to the fault LED.

I was hoping that someone else would  duplicate the modification just to
reassure me that what I did wasn't black  magic. It looks like Nigel is
doing just  that-thanks.

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