[time-nuts] Lucent KS-24361, HP/Symmetricom Z3809A, Z3810A, Z3811A, Z3812...
GandalfG8 at aol.com
GandalfG8 at aol.com
Mon Nov 3 13:00:02 EST 2014
Thanks for your further comments, and certainly no need for the "sorry".
It was your pioneering work that inspired recent efforts to start with,
and the confusion over the pin numbers that led Gotz to the, just grounding
pins 2 and 3, 2 link solution we have now.
Overall, I'd say, not a bad result:-)
Good luck with the 10 MHz conversion, I'll probably do that soon as well,
after bringing out the 5 Mhz, but for now I'm just letting them cook whilst
monitoring the 15MHz.
As has been previously commented, aside from the GPS module, there seems to
be very little difference between the Ref-0 and Ref-1 modules, and I'm
quite tempted to make up my own patch lead, whip out the GPS module from one
of my Ref-1 units, and then couple the two Ref-1s together to see how they
cope with that:-)
In a message dated 03/11/2014 17:13:15 GMT Standard Time,
golgarfrincham at gmail.com writes:
GandalfG8 at aol.com GandalfG8 at aol.com Sun Nov 2 09:08:30 EST 2014
"Ooh err, whoops, and oh dear !!
Arthur, I've only just had a chance to look at your latest photos, and
unless I've really got my wires crossed, if you'll pardon the
your links on J5 are not shown on pins 2, 10, 12, and 15, but on pins 4,
11, and 13."
Darn-I'm glad someone was paying more attention than I was when I wrote
that years ago. Apparently when I was documenting what modifications I
had made I just picked up a 15 pin D plug shell to get the numbers
instead of looking at the obvious numbers on the RFTG socket connector
and those connectors being mirror images have the numbers reversed. I
was out geocaching yesterday and didn't catch up on the new posts until
this morning so I'm a little late in responding. I also checked to see
if I had any other scribbles on the changes I made and found this: "If
pin 2 is held low the 'ON' LED will flash. A pulse low will turn it on.
The RC timer holds pin 2 low to flash for about 6 seconds so you can
see it actually happens then pin 2 returns high and the 'ON' LED stays
So apparently some of the parts I added were to just make the light look
like they were working correctly (can you spell OCD?) and may not be
necessary. As I originally said, this was a hack and I wanted others to
duplicate what I had done to see if any of it made sense to them. At
least it appears that by adding the circuit I came up with and/or adding
jumpers you can get the RFTG-u REF 1 unit to work without the slave unit.
I just ordered another RFTG-u REF 1 and will see if I can modify that and
get it to output 10Mhz instead of 5Mhz like my original unit.
Sorry about the screw up on the numbers.
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