[volt-nuts] Shorting links
m k
m1k3k1 at hotmail.com
Tue Apr 10 21:40:05 UTC 2012
Hi,
Another thing to do is to use a close fitting top-hat made from a cube of foam polystyrene on the front covering right back to the front panel, and a bit of polystyrene behind if possible, you might even get below a millidegree of gradient in the plug.
Also there was a person on this mailing list a while ago who made some low thermal emf solder, perhaps he could chime in on how difficult is was to make?
MK
> From: jltran at att.net
> To: volt-nuts at febo.com
> Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 16:57:16 -0500
> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Shorting links
>
> When I faced this, my thought was to get probably 22 ga copper wire and wrap
> it around the 'pins' on the connection side of the connector a number of
> times, connecting all the pins, then solder it all together just to 'hold'
> the wire in contact with the pins. Low thermal solder would be even better.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: volt-nuts-bounces at febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces at febo.com] On
> Behalf Of David C. Partridge
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 4:04 PM
> To: 'Discussion of precise voltage measurement'
> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Shorting links
>
> I have a small amount of SnCd low thermal solder from a very old RF power
> meter.
>
> Dave
> -----Original Message-----
> From: volt-nuts-bounces at febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces at febo.com] On
> Behalf Of Mark Sims
> Sent: 09 April 2012 18:20
> To: volt-nuts at febo.com
> Subject: [volt-nuts] Shorting links
>
>
> Solder is a no-no for the shorting link. Bad thermal EMF karma. You need
> to use pure copper.
>
>
>
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