[volt-nuts] What's All This Low Thermal EMF Test Lead Stuff?

[Stan Katz]

You are on the money that guarding/shielding are sadly neglected as
subjects, in their own right. Posts in this group consist primarily of
reports of guard leakage in member instruments, and repair details.
Discussion of proper lash ups of cal. instruments to home built devices, or
even work prototypes, would be very welcome by me. I have read Analog
Devices AN-347, but a tutorial with problems that the student must complete
the lash ups for, would give me a better idea if I've grasped the subject
matter. There are two text books mentioned at the end of AN-347, one by
Morrison, the other by Ott. Any suggestion as to which to buy? The latest
texts by these authors are pricey, so that's why I'd like to pick just one.


On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 3:37 AM, <acbern at gmx.de> wrote:

> generally I think, and at least for your gear, if you use copper plugs of
> some type and even solder the wires, thats perfectly fine.
> also for a 3458a, and after proper temp stabilization after connecting the
> cables (5min) which you always need, these are fine, have not measrured any
> difference to crimped cables. also the type of cable plating (tin/silver..)
> does not make much difference.
> there were many discussions over time, but all the cadmium solder and non
> plated copper type debates are not making much sense down to the 3458a
> level.
> I have not done comparison tests with nanovolt meters, as mine have fixed
> cables, so no option to change them without destroying them, but note that
> e.g. the 182 nanovolt meter has a mil type plug (no special contacts).
> sources of error are also things like where to connect the guard to, these
> often make a much bigger difference (I have seen these many times, causing
> voltage differences of several uV depending where in the setup you
> connected the guard, while otherwise the measurement was perfectly stable),
> and I bet while people put a lot of effort into the emf discussion, the
> guard issue is more often causing errors in measurements in real life. and
> thats just one example of additional causes of errors.
> cheers
>
> > Gesendet: Dienstag, 19. August 2014 um 06:07 Uhr
> > Von: "Stan Katz" <stan.katz.hk at gmail.com>
> > An: "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" <volt-nuts at febo.com>
> > Betreff: [volt-nuts] What's All This Low Thermal EMF Test Lead Stuff?
> >
> > I'm a self described volt-nut-near-beer. I don't own a 732A/B, or an
> > HP3458. I do own HP3456 DMMs that are at the top of my instrumentation
> > pecking order.  I have all the necessary gear to calibrate these DMMs
> > according to ancient HP documentation. At the top of my cal. chain is the
> > 731B, called out in HP3456 original documentation.  This hierarchy places
> > me in the near-beer, or junior member status of the group. I look forward
> > to being educated, and/or corrected on my understanding of the use of
> test
> > leads with precision instrumentation.
> >
> >  I don't find much ancient HP documentation on test leads. The only
> > recommendations in the era of the 3456 back to the 1960's is to use as
> > thick a solid lead of pure copper wire as you can find, and insert the
> wire
> > into the drill hole on the banana terminal. If the copper is pure, and
> has
> > been properly cleaned, the thermal emf's on both identical length leads
> > should all be balanced, and cancel out. In any case, pure copper-copper
> > connections generate the lowest thermal emf. I  will agree that
> manhandling
> > 16 gauge solid wire can be very inconvenient.
> >
> >  The path I have taken recently is to order Nakamichi gold over copper
> > stereo banana plugs for my connections ( I deal in low voltage work
> > exclusively), as well as gold plated spade lugs to go under the banana
> > screw-downs. ( My budget ruled out gold over beryllium copper Pomona
> brand
> > spades. )  I will then experiment between the two connector types. As for
> > connections, it seems to me the best course is just to screw down the
> > banana plugs, or in the case of the spades, just crimp. I'll wing it on
> the
> > crimping, and see if simple tools can perform adequately. I would avoid
> > solder, since how can one form identical topological spots of solder on
> > every connection, deposited at the exact same place on each connection,
> and
> > ensure the exact same weight of solder, to the microgram, on each
> > connection. Since my modus operandi is to aim for balanced emfs, I think
> > solder is out. Of course, if one wishes to risk one's health, and that of
> > the family, one can track down a source of cadmium, and mix up a lot of
> low
> > thermal emf solder (cadmium solder is banned in the US, and EU)...not for
> > me.
> >
> > Don't worry, I won't be using tin plated wire, I managed to pick up a
> spool
> > of silver plated 16 gauge wire for my investigations.  Am I on some other
> > planet for choosing the balanced thermal emf approach for precision test
> > lead applications, as opposed to going to great lengths to eliminate
> every
> > trace of emf?
> >
> > Please forgive me if these emf discussions have been between engineers
> > working outdoors in the oil fields of North Dakota, or out on a North Sea
> > drilling platform. In that case, go for all the super low emf techniques
> > you can lay your hands on.
> >
> > Good Luck,
> > Stan
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