[volt-nuts] 732A and Prologix received
tmicallef at gmail.com
Sun Aug 24 19:52:31 EDT 2014
Thanks for the tip. Do you have an automated measurement system for the
10v inter-comparisons or do you manually log them with a spreadsheet?
I don't think the 12v are better, but it is interesting that some people
have modified them to dual batteries. I do not think there is any added
benefit unless someone happens to use a lot of those particular 12v
So far I have two with the 6v packs and one with the 12v. I have a
fourth one waiting to be repaired once I finish my current projects.
Sent from my iPad
> I check the batteries every month per the 732A manual. Usually I keep
> few used cells from previous packs around that seem to be ok after
> them for capacity just like checking the battery pack. I can usually spot
> cells going bad with that method. If I don't have a spare set then I just
> substitute a used cell until I receive a new set.
> I agree with you that the cheap ones are crap. I have used Power Sonic
> a lot with some a few EaglePicher and one set of Enersys. The EaglePicher
> are crap so I will never use them. EaglePicher have had a couple out of 8
> that have failed very early. I have never tried Panasonic. So I stick
> the Power Sonic's. I am not sure why the 12 volt ones would be better
> the 6 volts because 12 volt is just 6 lead acid cells while the 6volt are
> lead acid cells. If one of the 6 cells in the 12 volt battery go bad then
> the whole battery has to be changed. So you better buy good quality 12
> I just can't seem to source batteries locally easily at a reasonable
> price. So I order them from Allied usually.
> ----- Original Message -----
> To: "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" <volt-nuts at febo.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2014 8:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] 732A and Prologix received
>> I use a lot of the 12v 7ah batteries for my UPS backups and 732B. But
>> I was mistaken. The 12V 5ah batteries are the ones that I am using in one
>> of my 732A. There is more play inside the tray with the 12v batteries by
>> several mm as compared to the 6v which only has a 2-3mm. The 12v
>> is not difficult, but it is easier if the battery tray has already been
>> machined for the 12v batteries. The battery tabs don't line up well with
>> the existing holes and need to be widened. Two additional holes must also
>> be added.
>> Sourcing the batteries locally is more of a convenience than waiting for
>> the delivery. The el-cheapo 6v batteries are a waste of money and I have
>> batteries so far to prove it. They died the first time I had a 6hr outage
>> and would not hold a charge after that.
>>> On Sat, Aug 23, 2014 at 1:21 PM, Bill Gold <wpgold3637 at att.net
>>> I get 6 volt 4 amp/hr (or 4.5 amp/hr) batteries and they will fit
>>> perfect. Power Sonic PS-640, Genesis NP4-6, Panasonic LC-R064R5C and
>>> that are in this size and package. Order from one of the usual
>>> distributors like Allied, Mouser, Digikey. This is a very common
>>> it is used in a lot of "EXIT" signs so they are lighted when the power
>>> out. I don't see how the 12V 7AH will fit as they are too large. I
>>> you could use a 12V 5AH (PS1250) as it is the same size as 2 x 6 volt 4
>>> but the terminals are in the wrong place so you will have to "nibble"
>>> the aluminum plate that holds them in the 732A battery pack. You have
>>> careful if you use the 12v 5AH as you will have 4 extra battery
>>> leads to deal with and connect correctly. I would stick with the 6V
>>> New batteries will last around 12 to 14 hours before the "CAL" light
>>> out when AC power is not applied. So shipping to Cal Lab can be a
>>> if it is a distance away, or you have to use a shipper like UPS or FEDEX
>>> you ship the night before and then use their "Morning delivery" and the
>>> Lab is expecting your 732A. Same on the way back to you. Of course you
>>> could always strap another battery on the 732A and hook it up to the
>>> power" plug to last longer. I have seen it done. The issue is to get
>>> Cal Lab to charge the extra battery before they ship the 732A back to
>>> When you remove and work on the battery pack always have the AC
>>> plugged in. The "CAL" led will stay on because the 18.6 v regulated
>>> is working.
>>> The "CAL" light is to indicate that power has not been lost to the
>>> Reference Amp or other associated circuits. When the raw supply
>>> voltage drops below about 21 volts the "CAL" light will go out. Below
>>> voltage the heater circuits will not work correctly and the 18.6 volt
>>> regulated supply will not regulate. The requirement is that the
>>> Amp be kept "alive" at all times to maintain the output voltage that was
>>> measured at the time of the most recent Calibration or Certification.
>>> the semiconductor junctions are unbiased and cool off when power is
>>> and then power is restored the result will be a different 10 volts than
>>> before the power failure. My experience is that after all of the years
>>> these units have been powered up, this won't happen and when power is
>>> and then restored, even months later, the 732A will come back to almost
>>> exactly the same 10 volts as when they lost power, usually with in 0.2
>>> after 24 hours of "warm up".
>>> What type of hookup leads are you using when measuring the 1 volt
>>> output? What is the PLC set to? I always use 100 PLC to measure this.
>>> you don't have "low thermal" connection leads you can experience uV
>>> for a minute or more after plugging in the leads due to the "thermals"
>>> generated because of the difference in temperature between the banana
>>> on the 732A and the banana plugs of the leads. I have found that even
>>> plugging in the lead will generate a thermal difference because of
>>> difference of temps and some heating due to the physical act of just
>>> inserting the plug because of friction between the jack and plug (my
>>> at any rate). You have to allow at least a minute or more before being
>>> to make a measurement after plugging in the leads. I just measured the
>>> variation of the 1 volt output of my 732A and using my 3458A and I got a
>>> total difference of 0.159 uV over 40 measurements using 100 PLC on the
>>> volt range of the 3458A. Using the MATH function and all of the data
>>> can collect. That was after waiting for several minutes after plugging
>>> the leads.
>>> I hope all of this helps.
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> To: "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" <volt-nuts at febo.com
>>> Sent: Friday, August 22, 2014 9:03 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] 732A and Prologix received
>>>> Thanks for the info. I have several Panasonic 12V 7 AH batteries that
>>>> keep topped off and they have very low current draw (~2 to 3 mA at
>>>> VDC) when charged and at their float voltage, so I am pretty sure they
>>>> in good condition. I will look at getting those in the units after I
>>>> ascertain the condition of the 732.
>>>> So now I have a what appears to be a functioning 3458A and a 732A but
>>>> slightly disagree. I am like the man with two watches that disagree
>>>> time - which is correct? For the moment, i am only concerned with
>>>> stability. The need for absolute accuracy will come later.
>>>>> On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 8:06 PM, Todd Micallef <tmicallef at gmail.com
>>>>> You have two possible choices. It can be configured with 4 x 6v 4Ah
>>>>> batteries or 2 x 12v 7Ah batteries. Hopefully the previous owner has
>>>>> modified the battery pack already. A couple of mine needed a nibbler
>>>>> to remove enough of the aluminum cover that fits over the tops of
>>>>> batteries. The original cover will short out to the battery tabs
>>>>> of the battery configuration if this is not done.
>>>>> You can find larger capacity batteries that will give you slightly
>>>>> battery life. I lost a couple sets of mail-order batteries after a
>>>>> extended outages. I would recommend going with locally bought
>>>>> instead of the cheaper mail order. My local Batteries Plus will
>>>>> have some warranty if I remember correctly. Moving forward I will
>>>>> 2 12v batteries and pre-charge them on a battery charger to equalize
>>>>> before putting them in the 732A. I think the cheap batteries did not
>>>>> discharge equally, and would not recover when power was applied.
>>>>> Inspect the back plane for damaged traces and look at the
> capacitors. I
>>>>> a few that looked questionable. So far, I have replaced all the big
>>>>> the pre-regulator and regulator boards. My feeling is that once
>>>>> online, they should run as long as possible between repairs.
>>>>> The battery charger circuit may need adjusting. I tweaked mine and
>>>>> seemed to work fine.
>>>>> On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 10:42 PM, Randy Evans <
>>>>>> I received my Fluke 732A today. Just powered it up but it needs
>>>>>> batteries. Any suggestions for sources (I haven't opened up the
>>>>> yet -
>>>>>> I want to make sure it works before doing that). Also received
>>>>>> ProLogix USB-GPIB adapter. I plan on using Mark Sims' CAL ran
>>>>>> program to get the CAL data from my 3458A. Should be a busy
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