[volt-nuts] A Fluke 732A: Return it or keep it?

Charles Steinmetz csteinmetz at yandex.com
Sat Mar 8 00:34:49 EST 2014


Michael wrote:

>I received a Fluke 732A yesterday which was purchased from an eBay seller.
>      *     *     *
>(1) Which one is wrong the DMM or 732A?

As others have said, you have no way to tell with what you have.  I 
note that the seller's 34401A read the 10v output as 10.0004v, pretty 
consistent with the 10.00036 your 3457A read.  So it seems likely 
that the 732A really is significantly farther off than the cal pot 
will correct, and the internal jumpers will need to be changed.

>(2) What is the cheapest battery replacement cost?

Fluke built the 732A with four, 6v, 4.5AH SLA batteries.  For some 
years now, when Fluke replaces the batteries, they use two, 12v, 5AH 
SLA batteries for a modest increase in capacity.  I believe the best 
course is to follow Fluke's lead, and use two, 12v, 5AH batteries 
when I replace them.

Also, I strongly advise against using the cheapest batteries you can 
get.  Those will invariably be very low quality batteries, which will 
fail prematurely.   There is a huge difference in quality from good 
SLAs to poor ones.  I have found that PowerSonic SLA batteries give 
good service in the 732A (about $35 each).

[NOTE: Be very careful shopping for SLA batteries -- the retail SLA 
market is absolutely full of fraudulent marketing.  For example, 
<http://www.batteryclerk.com/> does everything possible to make you 
think you are buying genuine brand-name batteries, but all they sell 
are "AJC" brand batteries, which are unmitigated crap.  In tiny print 
they say, "This is an AJC Brand replacement compatible with" and then 
in giant red letters, "Panasonic (or other name brand) Sealed Lead 
Acid Battery."  Many, many vendors play this same game.  Be 
absolutely positive you're getting the real thing.]

In order for the 732A to do what it is supposed to do (be, without 
question, the most accurate voltage standard you own), you will need 
to send it to Fluke for calibration (or to one of the very, very few 
other labs with sufficient accuracy and precision to calibrate a 0.1 
ppm voltage standard).  You will pay from $700 to $1500 for 
this.  Every year.  So trying to save $50 on batteries is beyond foolish.

>Last, I paid $650 plus $35 shipping. Do you think it is worth 
>without battery, if voltages are in the range?

It is hard to say what a fair price is.  I have three, all of which 
came from working calibration labs (so I know they had been back to 
Fluke every year from new).  Mine have never needed anything other 
than batteries.  The most expensive of the bunch cost me $325.  But, 
as noted above, the cost of the hardware is not the real expense -- 
it's those trips back to Fluke for calibration.  (If you're not 
willing to send it to Fluke for calibration, you're just wasting 
money buying a 732A.  You should get one of these instead):

http://www.voltagestandard.com/New_Products.html>

Best regards,

Charles





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