[volt-nuts] Solartron 7081 .. what to look for

[Todd Micallef]

I have seen the photos of one in a 3458A go bad. Not a pretty sight but it
looks like the gunk is removable.

The input filters are being changed out on most of my older gear
(Fluke,Keithley,Solartron,Datron) and not all of it is Schaffner. I think
that anything going back that far and is potentially plugged in 24/7 needs
as much preventative protection as possible. I have power switches for my
racks so each item can be turned on/off by itself.

Todd

On Thu, Mar 10, 2016 at 11:21 PM, Pete Lancashire <pete at petelancashire.com>
wrote:

> Joe/Todd
>
> Helps a lot, just finished getting all the 7081 messages from the archive.
>
> I will be very careful with the connector, if the thing i clean, and
> basically behaves I'll keep it and order the connector/shell and keep my
> eyes open for another connector/cable assembly. Reading Dave's web site the
> thing to look for is a sticker from the factory with the calibration
> voltage for the zener. And of course order a ER3400 to have as a spare.
>
> Ever see one of those Scheffner filters after it has blown up ? I wish I
> still had the photos
>
> -pete
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 10, 2016 at 7:40 PM, J. L. Trantham <jltran at att.net> wrote:
>
> > Pete,
> >
> > I have a key that will fit the 'Cal' switch on the front panel and I'll
> be
> > happy to send you a copy if you need it.
> >
> > You don't need the key to take the cover off.  There are four 'dzus'
> > fasteners  on the top and bottom that will allow you to remove the
> covers.
> >
> > You don't need the key to put the meter in the 'Cal' mode but it allows
> > you to do it while leaving the covers on.  IIRC, removing a wire from the
> > 'Cal' switch will put the meter in the 'Cal' mode.  IIRC, the switch is
> > 'closed' in the 'Normal' position and 'open' in the 'Cal' position.  To
> > achieve the 'Cal' mode, just removing a wire from the switch will do the
> > job, IIRC.  Easy to test to make sure I'm correct.  Just remove the wires
> > from the switch (they slide off) and measure to see if it is 'open' or
> > 'closed'.
> >
> > There are a couple of batteries (at least one) that might need to be
> > replaced.  Easy to measure the voltage and see the date code.  Needed for
> > keeping the 'state' but not the Cal constants, IIRC.
> >
> > The connectors for the front and rear panel input connectors can be
> > 'injured' by making connections without the proper connector but you can
> > use some temporary connections to make the tests you refer to.  I have
> the
> > specifics about the proper connectors if you need them.  They are in the
> > 'archives' I think.
> >
> > Good meters but slow compared to the 3458A.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: volt-nuts [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces at febo.com] On Behalf Of Pete
> > Lancashire
> > Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2016 8:54 PM
> > To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
> > Subject: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7081 .. what to look for
> >
> > I just won a Solartron 7081, hopefully did not pay too much.
> >
> > I have 30 days ROR.
> >
> > Other then the usual things in any used piece of equipment, obvious
> > damage, Perfume of Allen Bradly, error messages What are some of the
> thing
> > I should be looking for.
> >
> > The bad news is I do not have a cable or key. Is the key needed to take
> > the cover off ?
> >
> > Someone in the past said the had the key type and a drawing or scan of
> the
> > key are you still here ?
> >
> > I could coble up a cable to do the basic E/I/R checks or is there someone
> > in or near Portland Oregon that has one ?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > -pete
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