[time-nuts] Lucent KS-24361, HP/Symmetricom Z3809A, Z3810A, Z3811A, Z3812...

Bob Camp kb8tq at n1k.org
Sun Nov 2 13:57:49 EST 2014


Hi

Here’s one other little tidbit. The original mod notes from Arthur on all this show:

“ Pin 4: High = 2.4V, low = 0, Stop flashing = 1.35V”

That’s exactly what you would expect to see if you are driving one side of a RS-422 differential receiver. If pair D is one side of an RS-422, then the other side might be on some other pin. It would also suggest that pin 12 should toggle from 3.5 to 1.5V. The other side of the transmitter (obviously) would follow pin 12, going from 1.5 to 3.5.

Next up:

“Pin 3: High =4.84V low = 0V”

That is *not* what you would expect from a RS-422 setup. They must have some combo of RS-422 and CMOS on the connector.

Could I be guessing wrong from things on a 4 year old note - sure. It is a testable idea. If the GPS antenna farm was back up and in place, I could check it myself….

Bob

……………..


Pair designations from the other post:


Pair 		End A		End B

A		1			9
B		2			10
C		3			11
D		4			12
E		5			13
F		6			14
G		7			15

ground 	8			8



> On Nov 2, 2014, at 9:57 AM, GandalfG8--- via time-nuts <time-nuts at febo.com> wrote:
> 
> Oh, ok, thanks for that, and thanks too for the further information on the  
> interface connector.
> 
> For now though, it's me back to sleep for a while:-)
> 
> Regards
> 
> Nigel
> GM8PZR
> 
> 
> In a message dated 02/11/2014 14:53:01 GMT Standard Time, kb8tq at n1k.org  
> writes:
> 
> Hi
> 
> Well I for one am not getting at all bored at seeing what  you are doing. I 
> find it very encouraging that somebody is sharing all the ins  and outs of 
> figuring out what’s going on. Far to often we simply get the end  result and 
> not much detail (I for one have been rightly criticized for that  within 
> the last day or two …). Keep up the information stream. Keeping the  
> information on the list puts it into the archives so it can be dug up by  everybody. 
> 
> Bob
> 
>> On Nov 2, 2014, at 9:44 AM, GandalfG8---  via time-nuts 
> <time-nuts at febo.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Oh well, and  perhaps not too surprisingly, the J5 pin 3 to ground option 
> on 
>> its  own was not that much of a raging success.
>> 
>> However, the unit  did eventually come up indicating "Standby", and at 
> that  
>> point  pulling out the pin 3 to ground link and inserting the previously 
>> made up  plug switched it into "On" mode and up came the outputs.
>> 
>> I'm sure everyone is getting a bit tired of hearing me going on   about 
>> this, and it's hard to know what else to add other than to say  there 
> seems  to 
>> be more than one option that will do the trick,  but my wired plug as  
>> previously described, and wired according  to the starting in the top 
> right hand  
>> corner numbering scheme,  does, for me at least, seem to work every time, 
> so I 
>> think I'll  just stick with that and quit whilst I'm ahead:-)
>> 
>> Regards
>> 
>> Nigel
>> GM8PZR
>> 
>> 
>> In a  message dated 02/11/2014 01:27:18 GMT Standard Time,  
>> golgarfrincham at gmail.com writes:
>> 
>> Keep in  mind that I  made the modifications to my RFTG-u REF 1 almost
>> 4 years ago  and  the details of why I did what I did are kind of foggy
>> today. It was  a  pure hack but I *believe* that the circuitry as well
>> as the  jumpers were  required, or at least I thought so. The big problem
>> with getting something  like this to work is that after spending a  lot
>> of time on it I generally go  on to the next project and as  long as what
>> I did works, I forget about it  because it is a one  of a kind thing. The
>> photo link below shows the 5Mhz  buffer amp  I connected to the TP in
>> front of the oscillator that uses a   mounting bracket that is secured
>> by the BNC connector that outputs  the  5Mhz. The 24V/2A power supply that
>> I mounted on the back  connects across  the diode on the circuit board as
>> shown. The  transistors and other  components of the modification that are
>> mounted free form on the back of  the J5 connector get the +5VDC  from
>> the header directly in back of J5. The  wire on the left  goes through an
>> existing hole on the circuit board to  connect to  the fault LED.
>> 
>> I was hoping that someone else would   duplicate the modification just to
>> reassure me that what I did wasn't  black  magic. It looks like Nigel is
>> doing just   that-thanks.
>> 
>> 
>> 
> http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac262/rjb1998/RFTG-uREF1_zps546e4c82.jpg
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