[time-nuts] Lucent KS-24361, HP/Symmetricom Z3809A, Z3810A, Z3811A, Z3812...
paul swed
paulswedb at gmail.com
Sun Nov 2 14:14:29 EST 2014
Thanks to a fellow Time-Nut I order one of these yesterday. I had been
deleting the messages about some surplus widget. Should see it in a week so
will take advantage of every ones work to date. Thanks.
I did want to share an item with respect to batteries on the GPS engine.
I added 2 aa batteries to the Z3801 and mounted the pack on the back and
externally so that its very easy to measure the batteries and replace them.
I have in the past done the internal cr2032 coin thing. Pain to replace.
So far this set of aa batteries is lasting several years easily. The bigger
concern is possible leakage but again visually easy to see. Vbatt over a
year 2.99 to 2.93.
Its a simple case of just replacing them before leakage occurs.
The benefit as pointed out is the z3801 comes online much faster this way.
By the way the z3801 is off most of the year so the drains quite small.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sun, Nov 2, 2014 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp <kb8tq at n1k.org> wrote:
> Hi
>
> Here’s one other little tidbit. The original mod notes from Arthur on all
> this show:
>
> “ Pin 4: High = 2.4V, low = 0, Stop flashing = 1.35V”
>
> That’s exactly what you would expect to see if you are driving one side of
> a RS-422 differential receiver. If pair D is one side of an RS-422, then
> the other side might be on some other pin. It would also suggest that pin
> 12 should toggle from 3.5 to 1.5V. The other side of the transmitter
> (obviously) would follow pin 12, going from 1.5 to 3.5.
>
> Next up:
>
> “Pin 3: High =4.84V low = 0V”
>
> That is *not* what you would expect from a RS-422 setup. They must have
> some combo of RS-422 and CMOS on the connector.
>
> Could I be guessing wrong from things on a 4 year old note - sure. It is a
> testable idea. If the GPS antenna farm was back up and in place, I could
> check it myself….
>
> Bob
>
> ……………..
>
>
> Pair designations from the other post:
>
>
> Pair End A End B
>
> A 1 9
> B 2 10
> C 3 11
> D 4 12
> E 5 13
> F 6 14
> G 7 15
>
> ground 8 8
>
>
>
> > On Nov 2, 2014, at 9:57 AM, GandalfG8--- via time-nuts <
> time-nuts at febo.com> wrote:
> >
> > Oh, ok, thanks for that, and thanks too for the further information on
> the
> > interface connector.
> >
> > For now though, it's me back to sleep for a while:-)
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Nigel
> > GM8PZR
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 02/11/2014 14:53:01 GMT Standard Time, kb8tq at n1k.org
> > writes:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > Well I for one am not getting at all bored at seeing what you are
> doing. I
> > find it very encouraging that somebody is sharing all the ins and outs
> of
> > figuring out what’s going on. Far to often we simply get the end result
> and
> > not much detail (I for one have been rightly criticized for that within
> > the last day or two …). Keep up the information stream. Keeping the
> > information on the list puts it into the archives so it can be dug up
> by everybody.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >> On Nov 2, 2014, at 9:44 AM, GandalfG8--- via time-nuts
> > <time-nuts at febo.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Oh well, and perhaps not too surprisingly, the J5 pin 3 to ground
> option
> > on
> >> its own was not that much of a raging success.
> >>
> >> However, the unit did eventually come up indicating "Standby", and at
> > that
> >> point pulling out the pin 3 to ground link and inserting the previously
> >> made up plug switched it into "On" mode and up came the outputs.
> >>
> >> I'm sure everyone is getting a bit tired of hearing me going on about
> >> this, and it's hard to know what else to add other than to say there
> > seems to
> >> be more than one option that will do the trick, but my wired plug as
> >> previously described, and wired according to the starting in the top
> > right hand
> >> corner numbering scheme, does, for me at least, seem to work every
> time,
> > so I
> >> think I'll just stick with that and quit whilst I'm ahead:-)
> >>
> >> Regards
> >>
> >> Nigel
> >> GM8PZR
> >>
> >>
> >> In a message dated 02/11/2014 01:27:18 GMT Standard Time,
> >> golgarfrincham at gmail.com writes:
> >>
> >> Keep in mind that I made the modifications to my RFTG-u REF 1 almost
> >> 4 years ago and the details of why I did what I did are kind of foggy
> >> today. It was a pure hack but I *believe* that the circuitry as well
> >> as the jumpers were required, or at least I thought so. The big
> problem
> >> with getting something like this to work is that after spending a lot
> >> of time on it I generally go on to the next project and as long as
> what
> >> I did works, I forget about it because it is a one of a kind thing.
> The
> >> photo link below shows the 5Mhz buffer amp I connected to the TP in
> >> front of the oscillator that uses a mounting bracket that is secured
> >> by the BNC connector that outputs the 5Mhz. The 24V/2A power supply
> that
> >> I mounted on the back connects across the diode on the circuit board
> as
> >> shown. The transistors and other components of the modification that
> are
> >> mounted free form on the back of the J5 connector get the +5VDC from
> >> the header directly in back of J5. The wire on the left goes through
> an
> >> existing hole on the circuit board to connect to the fault LED.
> >>
> >> I was hoping that someone else would duplicate the modification just
> to
> >> reassure me that what I did wasn't black magic. It looks like Nigel is
> >> doing just that-thanks.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac262/rjb1998/RFTG-uREF1_zps546e4c82.jpg
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >> and follow the instructions there.
> >>
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